Walter Ponce
Balila is a neo-Lebanese restaurant on the first floor of the Hotel Longemalle, on Place de Longemalle in the centre of Geneva, a few steps from the lake. It serves modern Lebanese cuisine: classic mezze, grills and fatteh, made lighter and paired with local produce such as fish from Lake Geneva.
The name comes from balila, a traditional Lebanese dish of warm chickpeas cooked with a pinch of cumin, peppers, garlic, cherry tomatoes, shallots and herbs. I was invited by the Geneva tourism board to try the cuisine, and I fell in love with both the decoration and the cooking.
Balila menu: what we ate
The menu is fine, modern, tasty, playful and a little spicy, and it revisits the classic flavours of Lebanon by lightening them.
Hot and cold mezze. The highlights were the exquisite hummus with turnip and cucumber pickles, the moutabal (smoky eggplant caviar with tahini and walnuts), the traditional fatteh revised with chicken and spicy yogurt, and of course the balila itself. All superb.
Main courses. Fish from Lake Geneva gets a starring role: a pan-fried féra fillet with herbs and “Bil Bassal” rice with fried onions. The revisited shawarma with sesame taratour sauce was devilishly addictive. Féra is a whitefish from the lake, and using it with Lebanese techniques is a good example of how Balila mixes the two cultures.
Menus at hotel restaurants change with the seasons, so check the current menu before you go: Balila on the Longemalle website.
The dining room and the balcony
Beyond the plate, you will be charmed by the meticulous decoration, between velvet and transparencies, with light gilding that echoes the origin of the dishes. The big plus is the terrace: on the first-floor balcony overlooking Place de Longemalle, you feel at home, but with four-star service.
The hotel building dates from the early 1900s, and Balila opened after its renovation in 2019.
Is Balila worth it?
Balila offers a journey through the flavours of the East, revisited with Western accents, in a magnificent dining room or on a lovely balcony. It is a must-try if you want to be right in the middle of Geneva while eating food that is as Lebanese as it gets.
My scores: Service: ★★★ | Food: ★★★★ | Location: ★★★★ | Price: ★★★ | Portions: ★★★★
Geneva is one of the most expensive cities in Europe, so budget accordingly. At the time of my visit, the average was around 60-80 euros per person.
A quick guide to Lebanese mezze
Lebanese food is built around sharing. A meal starts with mezze, small hot and cold plates that arrive together and are eaten with warm flatbread. It is one of the most vegetable-friendly cuisines in the world.
- Hummus: chickpeas blended with tahini, lemon and garlic
- Moutabal: smoky grilled eggplant mixed with tahini
- Tabbouleh: a parsley salad with bulgur, tomato, mint and lemon
- Fattoush: a crunchy salad with toasted bread and sumac
- Kibbeh: bulgur and minced meat croquettes
- Fatteh: layers of crispy bread, chickpeas and yogurt, sometimes with chicken or meat
Main dishes usually lean on grilled meat, fish, rice and spices like cumin, cinnamon, allspice and sumac. Desserts are often based on pastry, nuts, rose water and orange blossom.
If you live in or visit Zurich, my review of SimSim City covers a Lebanese mezze spot there.
Where is Balila? Address and getting there
Address: Pl. de Longemalle 13, 1204 Genève, Switzerland (first floor of the Hotel Longemalle) Website: https://www.longemallecollection.com/en/le-longemalle/le-longemalle-restaurant2.html Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/hotellongemalle/
Place de Longemalle is on the left bank (Rive Gauche), just behind the lake and the main shopping streets.
- From Geneva Cornavin station: around a 15-20 minute walk across the Rhône, or a short tram or bus ride towards Rive.
- From Geneva Airport: trains run frequently to Cornavin and take only a few minutes.
- By car: parking in the centre is limited and expensive, so public transport is easier.
What to do nearby
- The Jet d’Eau: Geneva’s famous lake fountain, a short walk along the waterfront
- Jardin Anglais: a lakeside park with the Flower Clock
- The Old Town (Vieille Ville): cobbled streets and St. Pierre Cathedral, just uphill
- Rue du Rhône: Geneva’s luxury shopping and watch street
For more ideas, see my guide to the best things to do in Geneva.
Tips for your visit
- Book ahead, especially for a balcony table in spring and summer.
- Order several mezze to share rather than one starter each.
- Check current opening hours and prices before you go.
FAQ
Where is Restaurant Balila in Geneva? On the first floor of the Hotel Longemalle, Place de Longemalle 13, 1204 Genève, near the lake in the city centre.
What kind of food does Balila serve? Modern Lebanese cuisine: hummus, moutabal, fatteh, shawarma and grilled dishes, made lighter and paired with local produce like féra from Lake Geneva.
What do Restaurant Balila reviews say? Mine is above: three stars overall, with four stars for the food, location and portions, and a beautiful balcony over Place de Longemalle.
Is Balila good for vegetarians? Lebanese cuisine has many vegetarian mezze, such as hummus, moutabal and salads. Check the current menu or ask the staff.
What does “balila” mean? Balila is a traditional Lebanese dish of warm chickpeas seasoned with cumin and garlic, which gives the restaurant its name.
Do I need a reservation? It is a good idea, especially for the balcony and for weekend dinners.
