Walter Ponce
Some trips are about seeing as much as possible. This one was the opposite. Last month we flew from Zurich to Kos for a week of sea, sun and doing very little, straight after a busy long weekend in London. It was exactly what we needed.
Kos is one of the Dodecanese islands, close to the Turkish coast, and it is easy to reach from most of Europe in summer. This guide covers where to stay, Kos Town, the beaches and the day trips worth doing, plus the practical bits.
Where to stay in Kos
The island is long and narrow, and where you stay changes the trip completely.
- Psalidi / Agios Fokas: our choice. A stretch of coast just east of Kos Town with resort hotels right on the sea, quiet but only a short ride or bike ride from town.
- Kos Town: the main town, with the harbour, the castle, restaurants and nightlife. Good if you want to walk everywhere.
- Tigaki and Marmari: long sandy beaches on the north coast, popular with families.
- Kardamena: lively and party-oriented in summer.
- Kefalos: in the far south-west, near the island’s best beaches, but a long way from everything else.
We stayed in a beachfront resort in Psalidi, and for a week of rest it was ideal: pool, sea and garden by day, Kos Town for dinner when we wanted it.
The beach in Psalidi
The coast here is pebbles and coarse sand rather than fine sand, with clear water that gets deep quickly. Most hotels have sunbeds and umbrellas on their own stretch. Water shoes help on the pebbles.
The coast road towards Kos Town has a flat cycle path all the way, and renting a bike for a day is one of the nicest ways to move around this side of the island.
Kos Town
Kos Town is small, walkable and pleasant in the evening, when it cools down.
- The harbour: yachts, fishing boats and the ferries to the other islands, lined with cafés and restaurants.
- The Castle of the Knights (Neratzia): the 15th-century fortress of the Knights of St John, guarding the harbour entrance.
- Hippocrates’ Plane Tree: the old plane tree by the castle, where, so the story goes, the father of medicine taught his students. Kos is his home island.
- The Ancient Agora: the open-air ruins right in the middle of town, free to walk around the edges.
- The old town lanes behind the harbour, full of shops, tavernas and bars.
Order a Greek frappé at least once: iced instant coffee whipped into a foam, the drink of every Greek summer.
The Asklepion
About four kilometres outside Kos Town, the Asklepion was an ancient healing sanctuary and medical school dedicated to Asclepius, the god of medicine. The ruins are spread over three terraces on a hillside with views across to Turkey. Go early or late in the day: there is little shade.
The best beaches in Kos
- Paradise Beach and Kamari Bay in the south, near Kefalos: soft sand and turquoise water, the island’s postcard beaches.
- Agios Stefanos: a small beach with an early Christian basilica on the shore and the islet of Kastri just offshore.
- Tigaki and Marmari: long, sandy and shallow on the north coast.
- Therma (Embros Thermes): at the end of the road past Psalidi, natural hot springs run into the sea between rocks. A unique swim.
Day trips from Kos
- Zia: a mountain village on the slopes of Mount Dikeos, famous for its sunset views over the north coast.
- Nisyros: a boat trip to the volcanic island next door, where you can walk down into the crater.
- Bodrum, Turkey: a short ferry from Kos Town. Bring your passport and check the visa rules for your nationality.
- Kalymnos and Pserimos: boat trips around the nearby islands, with swimming stops.
Getting to and around Kos
- Flights: Kos airport is in the middle of the island, around 25 to 30 minutes from Kos Town and Psalidi. In summer there are direct flights from Zurich and many other European cities.
- Buses: the local KTEL buses link Kos Town with the main villages and beaches.
- Car or scooter: the best way to reach the southern beaches and Zia.
- Bike: perfect for Kos Town, Psalidi and the flat north coast.
When to go
We went in June, and I would recommend it: hot and sunny but not yet the peak heat of July and August, the sea already warm, and fewer people. May and September are also excellent. Kos can be windy in summer, especially in July and August when the meltemi blows.
Tips for Kos
- Pick your base for the trip you want: Psalidi or Kos Town for a mix of rest and evenings out, the south for beaches.
- Rent a car for one or two days to see the south and Zia.
- Carry some cash for small tavernas and kiosks.
- Bring reef or water shoes for the pebble beaches.
FAQ
Is a week enough for Kos? Yes. A week gives you time to rest, explore Kos Town, visit the best beaches in the south and do one or two day trips.
Where is the best place to stay in Kos? For a mix of quiet beach and easy evenings out, Psalidi or Kos Town. For the best sandy beaches, the south around Kefalos. For families, Tigaki or Marmari.
Can you go from Kos to Turkey? Yes. Ferries run from Kos Town to Bodrum in well under an hour. Bring your passport and check the entry rules for your nationality.
Does Kos have sandy beaches? Yes, especially on the north coast (Tigaki, Marmari) and in the south (Paradise Beach, Kamari Bay). The coast near Kos Town and Psalidi is more pebbly.
