Walter Ponce
Thirty years ago, Bilbao was a grey industrial port. Then came Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Museum, and the city reinvented itself: a riverside of parks and architecture, a beautifully restored old town, and a pintxo scene that rivals San Sebastián’s. We spent a day there last month, between San Sebastián and Rioja, on our road trip across northern Spain.
Morning: the Guggenheim
The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao opened in 1997, and the building is the main event: curving titanium panels that change colour with the light, next to the Nervión river. Walk all the way around it before you go in.
Outside, look out for Puppy, Jeff Koons’s giant dog covered in flowers, and Maman, Louise Bourgeois’s huge spider by the river. Inside, the permanent collection includes Richard Serra’s walk-through steel sculptures. Book tickets online to skip the queue.
Midday: along the Nervión
From the museum, walk along the river towards the old town. The riverside promenade passes bridges, modern architecture and the old docks, and it is the best way to see how much the city has changed.
Afternoon: the Casco Viejo
Cross to the Casco Viejo, Bilbao’s medieval old town, known as the Siete Calles (seven streets). Start at the Arriaga Theatre, the grand 19th-century opera house on the river.
Then wander: the cathedral of Santiago, the Mercado de la Ribera (one of the biggest covered markets in Europe), and the Plaza Nueva, an arcaded square full of pintxo bars.
Pintxos in Bilbao
Bilbao’s pintxos are generous and creative, and the Plaza Nueva and the streets around it are the place for them. The rules are the same as in San Sebastián: one or two per bar, a zurito or a glass of txakoli, and move on.
What to eat and drink
Beyond the pintxo counters, Bilbao is a good place to try the classics of Basque cooking:
- Bacalao al pil-pil and bacalao a la vizcaína: salt cod, either in a garlic and olive oil emulsion or in a red pepper sauce. Both are Bilbao favourites.
- Gilda: anchovy, olive and guindilla pepper on a stick, the simplest and most traditional pintxo.
- Txangurro: spider crab, often baked in its shell.
- Idiazábal cheese: the smoked sheep’s cheese of the region.
- Txakoli: the local white wine. The Bizkaia variety comes from the hills around Bilbao.
- Kalimotxo: red wine and cola, a Basque bar classic.
For lunch, the Mercado de la Ribera has a gastro area with pintxo stalls on the ground floor, an easy option if you want to try a bit of everything.
More things to do in Bilbao
If you have more than a day, or want to swap something in:
- Museo de Bellas Artes: the city’s fine arts museum, a short walk from the Guggenheim, with Spanish and Basque painting from the Middle Ages to today.
- Artxanda funicular: a short ride up the hill above the city for the best panorama over Bilbao and the river.
- Zubizuri: Santiago Calatrava’s white footbridge over the Nervión, between the Guggenheim and the old town.
- Doña Casilda park: a large, green city park next to the Fine Arts Museum.
- San Mamés: the stadium of Athletic Club, a club famous for fielding players from the Basque Country. There is a museum and a stadium tour.
- Azkuna Zentroa: a former wine warehouse turned cultural centre, with a hall of columns that each have a different design.
Day trips from Bilbao
- Vizcaya Bridge (Puente Colgante): in Portugalete, at the mouth of the river, the world’s oldest transporter bridge, opened in 1893 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A gondola still carries people and cars across. Easy to reach by metro.
- Getxo: across the river from Portugalete, with a seafront walk past grand old villas and beaches.
- San Juan de Gaztelugatxe: a tiny chapel on a rocky islet joined to the coast by a stone path, about 45 minutes away by car. It was a Game of Thrones location. Access is limited in busy periods, so check online whether you need a free reservation.
- Gernika: the historic town bombed in 1937, with its Peace Museum and the symbolic Tree of Gernika.
- San Sebastián: about an hour and a quarter by car or bus. See San Sebastián in two days.
Where to stay
- Casco Viejo: atmospheric and close to the pintxo bars, but can be noisy at night.
- Abando and the Ensanche: the modern centre, with shops, good transport and easy walks to both the museum and the old town.
- Near the Guggenheim: quieter, with riverside hotels and views of the museum.
When to go
Bilbao is a year-round city: museums and bars do not depend on the weather. Spring and early autumn are the most pleasant for walking. The weather is mild but often rainy, so bring a light jacket at any time of year. In August, the city’s main festival, Aste Nagusia (Semana Grande), fills the streets with concerts and events for about a week.
Getting around
- Walk: the Guggenheim to the Casco Viejo is about 20 to 25 minutes along the river.
- Metro: Bilbao’s metro, with entrances designed by Norman Foster, covers the city and the coast.
- Tram: runs along the river between the Guggenheim and the old town.
- From San Sebastián: about an hour and a quarter by car or bus.
- From the airport: Bilbao airport is a short drive from the centre, with a regular bus to the city.
FAQ
Is one day enough for Bilbao? One day covers the Guggenheim, the river and the Casco Viejo. Stay two to add the coast or a match at San Mamés.
Is the Guggenheim Bilbao worth it? Yes, for the building alone. Book tickets online.
Bilbao or San Sebastián? Both, if you can: they are an hour apart. San Sebastián for the beach and pintxos, Bilbao for architecture, art and a bigger city feel.
How long do you need at the Guggenheim? Two to three hours is enough for the building, the outdoor sculptures and the main galleries.
What is the best area for pintxos in Bilbao? The Plaza Nueva and the streets of the Casco Viejo around it. The Ensanche also has many good bars.
Is Bilbao worth a visit if it rains? Yes. Most of the highlights are museums, markets and bars, and it rains often enough that the city is used to it.
