Walter Ponce
San Sebastián (Donostia in Basque) might be the best food city in Europe. It has one of the highest concentrations of Michelin stars in the world, but the real reason to come is cheaper and more fun: pintxos, the small bites piled on the counters of every bar in the old town. Add one of the most beautiful city beaches anywhere, and two days here go very fast.
We spent two nights in San Sebastián last month, as part of our road trip across northern Spain.
Day 1: the Parte Vieja and the first pintxos
The Parte Vieja (old town) is a grid of narrow streets between the port, the Urumea river and Monte Urgull, packed with pintxo bars. Walk it in the afternoon to get your bearings:
- Basilica of Santa María del Coro, with its ornate Baroque facade at the end of Kale Nagusia.
- Plaza de la Constitución, the old bullring square with numbered balconies.
- Fermín Calbetón and 31 de Agosto streets, the two main pintxo streets.
Our first meal in the city was lunch at Borda Berri on Fermín Calbetón, famous for its hot pintxos cooked to order: beef cheek, Idiazábal risotto, pig’s ear. In the evening, the same streets fill up for the pintxo crawl.
Day 2: La Concha, the coast and Gandarias
La Concha is a perfect shell-shaped bay with golden sand, calm water and Santa Clara island in the middle. Walk the whole promenade, with its famous white railings, from the old town to the Peine del Viento sculptures at the far end.
Next to the town hall, the Alderdi Eder gardens, with palm trees and carousel, are the classic photo spot.
Other things to do:
- Monte Urgull: a short climb from the old town for views over the bay.
- Monte Igueldo: the old funicular at the other end of La Concha, with a retro amusement park and the best panorama.
- Gros and Zurriola beach: across the river, the surfers’ beach and a younger, local pintxo scene.
We watched the sunset from the sea wall, then had dinner at Gandarias on 31 de Agosto.
How to do a pintxo crawl
- One or two pintxos per bar, then move on. That is the whole point.
- Cold vs hot: the pintxos on the counter are cold or reheated; the best ones are often the hot pintxos cooked to order from the board (pintxos calientes). Ask for them.
- Drink like a local: a zurito (small beer) or a glass of txakoli, the local slightly sparkling white wine, poured from height.
- Pay at the end: most bars keep track and you pay when you leave.
- Go early or late: bars are packed from 8 to 10pm. Go at 7:30 or after 10 for space at the counter.
Where to stay
- Parte Vieja: in the middle of the pintxo bars. Lively and noisy.
- Centro / Área Romántica: elegant, calm and a five-minute walk from everything.
- Gros: across the river, more local, near Zurriola beach.
Pintxos and dishes to try
Every bar has its own specialities, but a few classics are worth looking out for:
- Gilda: an anchovy, a green olive and a pickled guindilla pepper on a stick. It was born in San Sebastián and is the original pintxo.
- Txuleta: a thick, aged beef rib steak grilled over coals, usually shared.
- Bacalao: salt cod, often al pil-pil (in an emulsified garlic and olive oil sauce).
- Tortilla de patatas: potato omelette, served by the slice. Some bars are known only for theirs.
- Idiazábal: the smoked sheep’s cheese of the Basque Country.
- Basque cheesecake: the creamy, burnt-top cheesecake that a bar in the Parte Vieja made famous around the world.
Beaches and more sights
San Sebastián has three city beaches:
| Beach | Best for |
|---|---|
| La Concha | Calm water, the promenade, swimming |
| Ondarreta | Next to La Concha, quieter, at the foot of Monte Igueldo |
| Zurriola | Waves, surfing, the Gros neighbourhood |
A few more ideas if you have time:
- San Telmo Museum: a museum of Basque society and culture in a former convent at the foot of Monte Urgull.
- Santa Clara island: in summer, small boats run from the port to the island in the middle of the bay.
- La Bretxa and San Martín markets: the city’s food markets, good for seeing the produce the bars cook with.
- Miramar Palace: the former royal summer residence, with gardens between La Concha and Ondarreta.
Day trips from San Sebastián
- Getaria: a fishing town about half an hour west, known for grilled fish, txakoli vineyards and the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum.
- Hondarribia: a walled old town with colourful fishermen’s houses, right on the French border.
- Pasaia: a short trip east, where a small boat crosses the harbour to the old village of Pasai Donibane.
- Biarritz: across the border in France, under an hour by car.
- Bilbao: about an hour and a quarter away. See Bilbao in a day.
Getting there and around
- By air: San Sebastián has a small airport in Hondarribia. Bilbao airport has many more flights and a direct bus to San Sebastián.
- By car: the city centre is compact, so leave the car in a public car park and walk.
- On foot: almost everything in this guide is within walking distance. The walk along La Concha from the old town to the Peine del Viento takes around 40 minutes.
- Local buses cover the neighbourhoods and Monte Igueldo.
When to go
Summer is warm and the best time for the beach, but it is also the busiest and most expensive. June and September are a good balance. September brings the San Sebastián International Film Festival, and July the Jazzaldia jazz festival, so book early for those dates. The weather is mild all year but changeable, and rain is common, so pack a light jacket.
FAQ
How many days do you need in San Sebastián? Two days is enough for the beach, the old town and two pintxo nights. Three lets you add a day trip to Getaria or the coast.
What is the best pintxo bar in San Sebastián? There is no single best. Borda Berri for hot pintxos and Gandarias for a classic counter and a sit-down dining room are two very popular choices.
Is San Sebastián expensive? Pintxos cost around 3–5 euros each, so a crawl is affordable. Hotels are expensive in summer.
What is the best time to visit San Sebastián? June and September, for warm weather with fewer crowds. July and August are the busiest months.
What should you drink with pintxos? A zurito (small beer) or a glass of txakoli, the local slightly sparkling white wine. Basque cider is another local choice.
How do you get from San Sebastián to Bilbao? By car or bus, in about an hour and a quarter.
