Walter Ponce
In most pintxo bars, the food is already on the counter. Borda Berri works differently: the counter is almost empty, and the menu is a blackboard of hot pintxos cooked to order in a tiny kitchen behind the bar. It is one of the most famous bars in San Sebastián, and it was our first lunch in the city, during our two days in San Sebastián.
What we ordered
- Beef cheek (carrillera) in a rich red-wine sauce, the house classic.
- Marinated white anchovies with olive oil.
- Stuffed red pepper on bread.
- A piece of fish in a green sauce.
The other famous dishes are the Idiazábal cheese risotto (actually made with orzo-style pasta), pig’s ear and pork ribs.
Hot pintxos vs cold pintxos
In San Sebastián you will meet two kinds of pintxo. The first is the cold one: a slice of bread topped with something, often held together with a toothpick, laid out along the counter so you can point and eat right away. The second is the hot pintxo, called pintxo caliente or pintxo de cocina, which is cooked only when you order it and comes out on a small plate.
Borda Berri is firmly in the second camp, and that changes how a visit works:
- There is little to grab from the counter, so you order from the blackboard.
- Each dish takes a few minutes, so it makes sense to order two or three at once.
- Dishes come on plates with a fork, so you need a little space at the bar.
Small, cooked-to-order plates instead of bread-based snacks are now common across the old town, and Borda Berri is one of the bars most associated with that style.
About Idiazábal cheese
The famous risotto is made with Idiazábal, a pressed sheep’s milk cheese from the Basque Country and Navarre with its own protected designation of origin. It is made with milk from native breeds such as the Latxa sheep, and it is often lightly smoked, which gives it a nutty, slightly smoky flavour. Stirred into a creamy, rice-shaped pasta, it does the job that Parmesan does in an Italian risotto.
What to drink
- Txakoli: a light, dry, slightly sparkling white wine from the Basque coast, traditionally poured from a height into a tumbler. The best-known area is around Getaria, along the coast west of San Sebastián.
- Rioja: a glass of red is the natural partner for the beef cheek and the ribs.
- Zurito: a small glass of beer, handy when you plan several stops.
- Sidra: Basque cider, most associated with the cider houses outside the city, but served in bars too.
How a pintxo crawl works
Going out for pintxos in the Basque Country is often called txikiteo: hopping from bar to bar for a small drink and a bite at each. The rhythm is simple:
- Walk in, find a gap at the counter and catch a bartender’s eye.
- Order one or two of the bar’s specialities and a drink.
- Eat standing up, don’t linger too long, and pay before you leave. In many bars you simply tell the bartender what you had.
- Move on to the next bar, often just a few doors away.
Most people visit three to five bars in an evening, with one or two pintxos at each. The point is variety: each bar has its own signature dishes, and nobody expects you to make a full meal in one place.
When to go
Spain eats late. In San Sebastián, the lunchtime pintxo round usually runs from around 1pm, and the evening round fills up from about 8pm. Borda Berri is small and famous, so the best chance of a spot is right at opening, or later in the evening once the first wave has moved on. Summer, and especially August, is the busiest time of year in the old town.
Other bars nearby
Borda Berri sits in the heart of the Parte Vieja, so it is easy to combine with other well-known names within a few minutes’ walk:
- Gandarias, on 31 de Agosto, with a long counter of pintxos and a dining room behind.
- La Cuchara de San Telmo, another bar known for hot pintxos cooked to order, on a small alley off 31 de Agosto, near the San Telmo Museum.
- Ganbara, on San Jerónimo, famous for its wild mushrooms.
- La Viña, on 31 de Agosto, the home of the burnt Basque cheesecake.
- Bar Nestor, known for its tortilla, made in limited batches.
What Google reviewers say
Google rating: 4.6 out of 5 from 3,277 reviews (October 2026).
Reviewers say to believe the hype. The risotto is by far the most-mentioned dish, followed by the pork ribs, beef cheek and pig’s ear. Portions are small and prices low, and the wines are good. The service gets described as organised chaos: the bartenders take orders from a packed bar, remember who ordered what and keep it all moving. Expect a queue: many people line up before opening to get a spot.
Good to know
- Address: Fermín Calbetón Kalea 12, Parte Vieja, San Sebastián.
- Queue: go at opening time or late in the evening.
- How to order: read the blackboard, order at the bar, and your pintxos come out hot from the kitchen.
- Space: standing only, at the bar and a few ledges.
- Opening hours: they can change with the season, and the bar closes on some days, so check before you go.
- Order in rounds: order a couple of pintxos, eat, then order the next round. It keeps the dishes hot and the bar moving.
Verdict
One of the essential stops in San Sebastián. Go early, order the beef cheek and the risotto, and then move on to the next bar.
FAQ
What is Borda Berri famous for? Hot pintxos cooked to order, especially the beef cheek, the Idiazábal risotto, pig’s ear and pork ribs.
Where is Borda Berri? At Fermín Calbetón Kalea 12, in San Sebastián’s old town.
Do you need to queue for Borda Berri? Often, yes. Arrive at opening time to avoid the longest wait.
What is Idiazábal? A pressed sheep’s milk cheese from the Basque Country and Navarre, often lightly smoked. It is the star of Borda Berri’s risotto.
What should you drink with pintxos at Borda Berri? A glass of Rioja with the meat dishes, or txakoli, the light sparkling white wine of the Basque coast. A zurito (small beer) is the classic choice if you plan many stops.
How many pintxos should you order per bar? On a pintxo crawl, one or two per person at each bar is typical. That leaves room to try the specialities at three or four other bars in the same evening.
