Walter Ponce
Most visitors to San Sebastián do their pintxo crawl in the Parte Vieja, the old town. Locals know that some of the best counters are across the river in Gros, the neighbourhood behind Zurriola beach. Bergara taberna, better known as Bar Bergara, at General Artetxe Kalea 8, is one of the best-known of them.
We went for lunch, after a morning at the Real Sociedad stadium in Anoeta.
What we ordered
We mixed the classic ways of eating at a pintxo bar, with something to share and a few bites from the counter:
- A plate of Ibérico ham.
- Several cold and hot pintxos on bread.
- A pepper dish.
- A tortilla-style pintxo.
How a pintxo bar works
If it is your first time in San Sebastián, the system can look chaotic. It is simpler than it seems:
- Cold pintxos sit on the counter. You ask the staff for the ones you want, or in some bars take them yourself on a small plate.
- Hot pintxos are cooked to order. They are listed on a board or menu behind the bar, and you order them from the staff, who bring them out when ready.
- Drinks are ordered at the counter at the same time.
- Paying: you usually pay at the end, telling the staff what you had. Honesty is part of the culture.
- Moving on: the tradition is one or two pintxos and a drink per bar, then on to the next one.
Bergara is a good example of this mix: a long counter covered in cold pintxos, plus a list of hot ones made in the kitchen.
The pintxos to know
Some of the pintxos that reviewers mention most at Bergara, and that you will see across the city:
- Foie gras pintxo: a seared slice of duck foie gras, often served on bread with a sweet element such as fruit or a reduction. It is one of the classic hot pintxos of the city’s bars.
- Anchovy omelette: a small tortilla with anchovies, a nod to the Cantabrian fishing tradition.
- Grilled scallops (vieiras), cooked to order on the plancha.
- Small calamari (txipirones), grilled or fried.
- Gilda: the most famous cold pintxo in San Sebastián, a skewer of anchovy, green olive and pickled guindilla pepper, said to be named after Rita Hayworth’s 1946 film Gilda.
- Tortilla de patatas: the Spanish potato omelette, served by the slice or as a small pintxo.
Gros vs the Parte Vieja
The Parte Vieja is the historic heart of San Sebastián, between the port, La Concha and the Urumea river. It has the highest concentration of pintxo bars in the city, on streets such as 31 de Agosto, Fermín Calbetón and Calle del Puerto. It is also the busiest, especially in summer, when the counters are several people deep. For a full route there, see our guide to two days in San Sebastián, and for one of the old town’s best-known bars, our Borda Berri review.
Gros sits on the other side of the Urumea, a few minutes’ walk across the bridges. It has a younger, more local feel:
- Zurriola beach is the surfing beach of the city, with waves for beginners and a busy surf school scene.
- The Kursaal, the glass cube designed by Rafael Moneo, hosts the San Sebastián International Film Festival every September.
- The streets behind the beach, including General Artetxe, Zabaleta and Bermingham, are full of pintxo bars with a mostly local crowd.
Many visitors combine both: lunch in Gros, then an evening crawl in the Parte Vieja, or the other way round.
What Google reviewers say
Google rating: 4.3 out of 5 from 4,102 reviews (October 2026).
Reviewers describe a wide choice of hot and cold pintxos served from the counter, and the most-mentioned dishes are the foie gras pintxo, the anchovy omelette, the grilled scallops and the small calamari. The homemade desserts and the good wine selection also come up often. Many reviewers highlight great value and friendly staff, and several note that the bar is mentioned in the Michelin Guide.
Getting there
- On foot: from the Parte Vieja, cross the Kursaal bridge or the Santa Catalina bridge over the Urumea. General Artetxe is a few blocks inland from Zurriola beach, around ten minutes from the old town.
- From Anoeta: the Real Sociedad stadium is in Amara, south of the centre. City buses run to the centre, or it is roughly a half-hour walk along the river.
- By train: the main train station (Donostia/San Sebastián) is on the Gros side of the river, a short walk away.
What to drink
The classic drink with pintxos is txakoli, the light, slightly sparkling white wine from the Basque coast, poured from a height into a wide glass to bring out its bubbles. Most of the txakoli served in San Sebastián comes from Getaria, just west of the city. Other options are a zurito (a small beer), a glass of Rioja, or, in season, Basque cider.
When to go
Pintxo bars are busiest at the traditional times: from around 1pm to 3:30pm at lunch, and from about 8pm in the evening. Weekends and summer are the busiest. Arriving at the start of a service gives you more space at the counter and a fuller selection of cold pintxos.
Tips
- Look at the board for the hot pintxos; they are often the highlights.
- Order hot pintxos early, then pick cold ones while you wait.
- Keep it moving. Pintxo bars are for standing and sharing space at the counter.
- Leave room for dessert, which reviewers mention often here.
- Combine Gros with a beach walk on Zurriola or along the river.
Verdict
Rating: 4 out of 5, based on Google reviews (4.3 from 4,102). Bar Bergara suits travellers who want a classic San Sebastián pintxo counter with a more local crowd than the old town. It is also an easy stop if you are staying in Gros, coming from the station or walking back from Zurriola beach.
FAQ
Where is Bar Bergara? At General Artetxe Kalea 8, in the Gros neighbourhood of San Sebastián, a few blocks from Zurriola beach.
What is Bar Bergara known for? Hot and cold pintxos, especially the foie gras pintxo, anchovy omelette, grilled scallops and small calamari, plus homemade desserts.
Is Gros better than the Parte Vieja for pintxos? Both are excellent. The Parte Vieja has more bars and more visitors; Gros is quieter and more local.
How do you order hot pintxos? Ask the staff from the list behind the bar. They are cooked to order and brought to you when ready.
What is txakoli? A light, slightly sparkling Basque white wine, poured from a height and served in a wide glass.
How far is Bar Bergara from the old town? About a ten-minute walk across the Urumea river.
