Walter Ponce
Cala Montjoi is a small cove on the Cap de Creus coast, a few kilometres from Roses, at the end of a winding road through the hills. It is famous among food lovers for one reason: the legendary restaurant elBulli stood here. Today the cove has another reason to make the drive: a simple beach restaurant, Chiringuito Cala Montjoi, serving rice and seafood with your feet almost in the sand.
We spent a summer Sunday there last month, on a day trip up the Costa Brava from Barcelona.
The place
A low, whitewashed building on the beach with a terrace under a reed roof, tables looking straight out at the water, and the green hills of the Cap de Creus behind. It is relaxed and unpretentious: people come straight from the beach.
Cala Montjoi and elBulli
For decades, this quiet cove was a pilgrimage site for food lovers. elBulli, the restaurant run by Ferran Adrià, was named the world’s best restaurant several times and changed modern cooking with its creative, experimental dishes. It closed as a restaurant in 2011. The building has since been turned into elBulli1846, an exhibition space about creativity and the restaurant’s history, which opened in 2023. Visits need to be booked in advance online, so check its website before you go if you want to combine it with lunch.
Rice on the Costa Brava: a quick guide
Rice is the reason to come, so it helps to know the styles you will see on menus along the coast:
- Paella / arròs sec: dry rice, cooked in a wide, flat pan, ideally with a crisp layer at the bottom (socarrat).
- Arròs caldós: soupy rice, served in its broth. Lobster rice is often made this way.
- Arròs melós: in between, creamy and moist.
- Arròs negre: black rice, coloured with squid ink, usually served with allioli.
- Fideuà: like paella, but made with short noodles instead of rice.
Most restaurants cook rice for a minimum of two people, and it is made to order, so expect a wait of around 20 to 30 minutes. Order starters to share while it cooks.
What we ordered
- Fried squid and prawns to start, the classic beach-bar opener.
- Seafood paella, with prawns and mussels, served in the pan.
- Lobster rice (arroz con bogavante), one of the house specialities.
What Google reviewers say
Google rating: 4.3 out of 5 from 633 reviews (October 2026).
The setting gets the most praise: a peaceful cove with sea views, warm service and a relaxed atmosphere. Food-wise, reviewers consistently recommend the rice dishes, especially the lobster rice and the paella, as well as the mussels, the baby squid (chipirones) and the salads. The criticism is mostly about the non-seafood dishes, with one reviewer sending back a tough steak. Stick to the rice and the seafood.
Good to know
- Season: it is a summer restaurant and closes outside the season. Check before you go.
- Booking: recommended in July and August, especially for lunch at weekends.
- Getting there: by car from Roses, about 20 minutes on a narrow, winding road. Parking near the cove is limited in summer, so arrive early.
- Combine it with: a swim in the cove, the Cap de Creus natural park, Cadaqués, or an evening in Girona on the way back to Barcelona.
- From Barcelona: roughly two hours by car via the AP-7 motorway towards Figueres, then on to Roses.
- Watch the wind: the Cap de Creus is exposed to the tramuntana, a strong north wind. On windy days the sea can be rough and terrace dining less pleasant, so check the forecast.
- Bring water shoes and shade. The beach is pebbly in places, and it gets hot in the middle of the day.
Around Cala Montjoi
- Cap de Creus Natural Park: a wild, rocky headland of wind-sculpted rock, the easternmost point of the Iberian Peninsula. The lighthouse area is a classic stop, with views over the sea.
- Cadaqués: a whitewashed fishing village on the other side of the headland, with Salvador Dalí’s house in Portlligat just next to it. Book the Dalí house well ahead in summer.
- Roses: a bigger beach town with a long bay, a historic citadel and plenty of hotels, the practical base for this part of the coast.
- Coastal walks: footpaths link the coves between Roses and Cala Montjoi. Bring water and good shoes, as the terrain is rough and there is little shade.
For a longer route through Girona and beyond, see our northern Spain road trip.
Verdict
A beautiful spot for a long summer lunch, with good rice dishes and one of the most scenic settings on the Costa Brava. Order the lobster rice, take your time and go for a swim after.
FAQ
Where is Cala Montjoi? On the Cap de Creus coast, a few kilometres from Roses in the Costa Brava, Girona province.
Is Cala Montjoi where elBulli was? Yes. The original elBulli restaurant was in Cala Montjoi.
What should you order at Chiringuito Cala Montjoi? The rice dishes, especially the lobster rice and the seafood paella, plus the fried squid.
Can you visit elBulli today? Not as a restaurant. The original building is now elBulli1846, an exhibition space about the restaurant and creativity, open to visitors with an advance booking.
Do you need to book Chiringuito Cala Montjoi? In July and August, yes, especially for weekend lunch. Outside peak season it is quieter, but check that it is open before you drive out.
How do you get to Cala Montjoi without a car? It is difficult. There is no regular public transport to the cove, so most people drive or take a taxi from Roses. Experienced walkers can also reach it on the rough coastal paths from Roses.
