Walter Ponce
One of the best things about living in Zurich is that Italy-in-Switzerland is two hours away. Last month we took the train south to Lugano for a summer Sunday: palm trees, a lake surrounded by mountains, Italian food, and back home in Zurich the same evening.
Here is how to do Lugano as a day trip from Zurich, what to see, where to eat and how to make the most of a single day.
Getting there: Zurich to Lugano by train
Since the Gotthard Base Tunnel opened in 2016, the direct train from Zurich HB to Lugano takes around two hours, with departures roughly every hour.
The journey is part of the fun. After Arth-Goldau the line runs along the Urnersee, the southern arm of Lake Lucerne, past Flüelen and the Weg der Schweiz trail on the lakeshore, before it disappears into the 57-kilometre tunnel under the Alps. You go in among green Alpine slopes and come out in Ticino, where the architecture, the language and the light all change.
Tips for the train:
- Sit on the right-hand side going south for the views of the Urnersee.
- Buy Supersaver tickets on the SBB app in advance; they can be much cheaper than the full fare.
- With a GA travelcard or a Half Fare card, a day trip is very affordable.
- If you have time and want the scenic route, the Gotthard Panorama Express combines a lake steamer from Lucerne with the old mountain line over the Gotthard (seasonal, reservation needed).
Morning: the cathedral and the funicular
Lugano station sits on a hill above the town. Right below it is the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo, with its Renaissance facade and a terrace that gives you the first great view: the old town rooftops, the lake and the mountains, with Monte San Salvatore on one side and Monte Brè on the other.
From the station, take the short funicular (or the steps) down to the old town.
Midday: the old town and Piazza della Riforma
Piazza della Riforma is the heart of Lugano: a big, open square lined with cafés, with the neoclassical Palazzo Civico (the town hall) on one side. This is where you sit for an espresso or an aperitivo and watch the town go by.
From the square, walk the arcaded Via Nassa, Lugano’s elegant shopping street, and the narrow lanes of the old town around it.
Lunch: Ticino is the place for Italian-Swiss food: risotto, polenta, local cured meats and cheese, and a glass of Ticino Merlot. We had a long lunch with antipasti and a spritz on a terrace, which is the right speed for Lugano.
Afternoon: the lakefront, Castagnola and the olive trail
Walk east along the lakefront promenade to Parco Ciani, a lakeside park with old trees, flowerbeds and benches facing the water. Continue to the Castagnola neighbourhood, where the Sentiero dell’Olivo (Olive Trail) follows the lakeshore through olive trees to the village of Gandria, about an hour’s walk. From Gandria you can take a boat back to Lugano.
Alternatives for the afternoon:
- Monte Brè: take the funicular from Cassarate for one of the best views in Switzerland.
- Monte San Salvatore: the funicular from Paradiso goes up the other side of the lake.
- A boat trip: the lake boats stop at Gandria, Morcote (often called one of the most beautiful villages in Switzerland) and Campione d’Italia.
- Swimming: in summer, the Lido di Lugano is the town’s big lakeside pool and beach.
Evening: back to Zurich
The last direct trains back to Zurich run until the evening, so you can stay for an aperitivo on the lake before heading home. Check the SBB app for the last connection.
A one-day Lugano itinerary
| Time | Plan |
|---|---|
| 08:00–10:00 | Train from Zurich via the Gotthard |
| 10:00 | San Lorenzo cathedral and view |
| 10:30 | Old town, Via Nassa, Piazza della Riforma |
| 12:30 | Long lunch on a terrace |
| 14:30 | Lakefront, Parco Ciani, Castagnola |
| 16:00 | Olive trail to Gandria and boat back, or a funicular to Monte Brè |
| 18:30 | Aperitivo, then the train home |
Tips for a day in Lugano
- Go in summer or early autumn for swimming and terraces, or in spring when the camellias and magnolias are out.
- Book train tickets early for the best Supersaver prices.
- If you stay the night, your hotel gives you the Ticino Ticket, which includes free public transport in the canton and discounts on boats and funiculars.
- Combine it with Locarno or Bellinzona if you have a second day; both are under an hour away.
FAQ
Can you do Lugano as a day trip from Zurich? Yes. The direct train takes about two hours, so you can leave in the morning, have a full day in Lugano and be back in Zurich in the evening.
What is the best way to get from Zurich to Lugano? The direct SBB train through the Gotthard Base Tunnel. It is faster and easier than driving.
What is there to do in Lugano in one day? The cathedral view, the old town and Piazza della Riforma, lunch on a terrace, the lakefront and either the olive trail to Gandria, a boat trip or a funicular up Monte Brè.
Is Lugano Italian-speaking? Yes. Lugano is in Ticino, the Italian-speaking canton of Switzerland, though German and English are widely understood.
