Walter Ponce
Last month we spent a long weekend in Santa Cruz de Tenerife, the island’s capital, and I already wrote a guide to Santa Cruz itself and a review of La Escala, our favourite coffee stop. This post is about the two best things to do from Santa Cruz: the old town of La Laguna and the beach at Las Teresitas.
Both are less than 30 minutes away, both are easy by public transport, and together they show a side of Tenerife that most people staying in the resorts of the south never see.
Why stay in Santa Cruz instead of the south
Most visitors land at Tenerife South airport and stay in Los Cristianos, Playa de las Américas or Costa Adeje. Santa Cruz in the north-east is a different experience: a real Canarian city with locals, markets, wide boulevards and parks, closer to Tenerife North airport and to the Anaga mountains. If you want culture and food over a sunbed, it is the better base, and La Laguna and Las Teresitas are on the doorstep.
San Cristóbal de La Laguna
La Laguna is the old capital of Tenerife, up on a plateau above Santa Cruz. Its historic centre has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999, and it is one of the best-preserved colonial towns of the 16th century: its grid layout of streets became the model for cities across Latin America, from Havana to Cartagena de Indias.
What to see:
- The Cathedral of La Laguna (Catedral de San Cristóbal), with its neoclassical facade and twin towers, on Plaza de la Catedral.
- Calle Obispo Rey Redondo and Calle Herradores, the two main pedestrian streets, lined with colourful colonial houses, wooden balconies and inner patios.
- Iglesia de la Concepción, the oldest church on the island, with a bell tower you can climb for a view over the rooftops.
- Plaza del Adelantado and the Mercado Municipal, the town’s food market.
- The palaces and courtyards along the way: many are open to the public, so look through any open door.
La Laguna is also a university town, so the bars and cafés are lively in the evening and cheaper than in Santa Cruz. Being higher up, it is often a few degrees cooler and cloudier than the coast; bring a layer.
How to get there: the Tenerife tram (line 1) runs from Santa Cruz to La Laguna in about 35 to 40 minutes, and the final stop is a short walk from the old town. By car or taxi it is about 15 to 20 minutes.
How long: half a day is enough to walk the centre; stay for lunch and a drink in the afternoon.
Las Teresitas beach
Most of Tenerife’s beaches are black volcanic sand. Las Teresitas, just past the fishing village of San Andrés about 15 minutes north-east of Santa Cruz, is the exception: a long, wide beach of golden sand, brought over from the Sahara in the 1970s, with a breakwater that keeps the water calm and the Anaga mountains rising right behind it.
Good to know:
- The water is calm and shallow, good for swimming even in winter, when the sea is cool but the sun is warm.
- There are kiosks along the beach for drinks and simple food, plus showers and sunbed rental.
- Weekends are busy with families from Santa Cruz; weekdays are quiet.
- San Andrés, the village at the start of the beach, is known for its simple fish restaurants. It is the place for lunch after the beach.
How to get there: the TITSA bus 910 runs from the Santa Cruz bus station (Intercambiador) to Las Teresitas in about 20 minutes. By taxi it is quick and affordable.
If you have more time: Anaga
Behind Las Teresitas rises the Anaga Rural Park, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve of steep green ridges, laurel forest and tiny villages. The Cruz del Carmen viewpoint and the Sendero de los Sentidos, a short walking trail through the laurel forest, are easy to reach by car from La Laguna. Further out, villages like Taganana and the black-sand beach of Benijo are among the most spectacular corners of the island.
A simple plan for a long weekend in Santa Cruz
- Day 1: arrive, walk the centre of Santa Cruz, the Rambla and the García Sanabria park.
- Day 2: Santa Cruz: Plaza de España, the Auditorio, the Mercado de Nuestra Señora de África.
- Day 3: tram to La Laguna for the morning and lunch.
- Day 4: Las Teresitas and lunch in San Andrés.
- Day 5: a drive into Anaga, or Mount Teide if you have a car.
Getting around Tenerife
- Tram: Santa Cruz to La Laguna.
- TITSA buses: cover the whole island and are cheap. A rechargeable Ten+ card saves money.
- Car: the best way to see Anaga and Teide. Roads in Anaga are narrow and winding; drive slowly.
- Airports: Tenerife North is about 15 minutes from Santa Cruz; Tenerife South is about 45 to 60 minutes.
When to go
Tenerife is a year-round destination. We went in February, when Santa Cruz was sunny and warm in the day. The north of the island gets more clouds and rain than the south, especially in winter, which is exactly why it is so green.
FAQ
Is La Laguna worth visiting? Yes. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most beautiful colonial towns in Spain, with a lively student atmosphere, and it is only a short tram ride from Santa Cruz.
How do you get from Santa Cruz to La Laguna? Take tram line 1, which takes about 35 to 40 minutes. A taxi takes 15 to 20 minutes.
Is Las Teresitas a natural beach? The beach was created in the 1970s with sand brought from the Sahara, and a breakwater keeps the water calm.
Is it better to stay in Santa Cruz or the south of Tenerife? The south is better for guaranteed sun and resorts. Santa Cruz is better for culture, food, local life and day trips to La Laguna, Las Teresitas and Anaga.
