Walter Ponce
Marbella has a reputation: superyachts, beach clubs and a lot of money. That side exists, but there is much more to it: a beautiful whitewashed old town, a seafront promenade that runs for kilometres, and some of the best paella and fried fish on the Costa del Sol. Last month we spent four days there in the middle of August.
Here is where to stay, what to do, and how to split your time between the beach, Puerto Banús and the old town.
Where to stay in Marbella
Marbella is spread out along the coast, so the area you choose matters.
- San Pedro Alcántara / west Marbella: where we stayed. Quieter, residential, on the beach, with the promenade running to Puerto Banús.
- Puerto Banús and Nueva Andalucía: the glamorous part, with the marina, designer shops and nightlife. Expensive and busy in August.
- The centre and the old town: walkable, with restaurants and the beach close by. Best if you do not want to rely on taxis.
- The Golden Mile: the luxury strip between the centre and Puerto Banús, with the big five-star hotels.
- East Marbella (Los Monteros, Elviria): villas, beach clubs and long sandy beaches, quieter but further out.
We stayed at La Paloma Blanca Boutique Hotel on the west side, a small hotel with a pool in a classic white Andalusian building. Being away from the centre was perfect for evenings by the pool, with Puerto Banús and the old town a short taxi ride away.
The beaches and the promenade
Marbella’s paseo marítimo, the seafront promenade, runs for many kilometres along the coast, with palm trees, beach bars (chiringuitos) and sea views the whole way. Walking or cycling a stretch of it in the early morning or evening is one of the best things to do here.
The beaches are mostly golden-grey sand, with sunbeds and umbrellas to rent in front of the chiringuitos. The sea on this side of the Mediterranean is calm but cooler than you might expect, refreshed by the Atlantic water coming through the Strait of Gibraltar.
Puerto Banús
Puerto Banús is the marina that made Marbella famous: superyachts, supercars parked along the quay, and designer stores from one end to the other. It is fun to walk around once, especially in the evening. Around the port there are beach clubs where you rent a daybed for the day, with a pool, music and food.
Tip: drinks and food directly on the marina are expensive. Walk a street or two back, or go to the beach for lunch.
The old town (Casco Antiguo)
The highlight of Marbella. The Casco Antiguo is a maze of narrow whitewashed streets, flower pots and bougainvillea, small squares and tapas bars, a world away from Puerto Banús.
- Plaza de los Naranjos: the main square, planted with orange trees and surrounded by terraces and the old town hall. Great for an evening drink.
- Iglesia de la Encarnación: the main church, with a big Baroque doorway, on a little square of its own.
- The old streets around it: Calle Ancha, Calle Nueva and the lanes towards the remains of the old Moorish walls.
- Avenida del Mar: the boulevard between the old town and the beach, lined with sculptures by Salvador Dalí.
What to eat
- Paella and seafood rice at a beach restaurant, ideally for lunch.
- Espetos: sardines grilled on a skewer over an open fire, often in an old boat filled with sand. The classic dish of Málaga’s coast.
- Pescaíto frito: a plate of mixed fried fish.
- Ajoblanco and gazpacho: cold soups made for August.
Day trips from Marbella
- Ronda: the town on a cliff above a deep gorge, about an hour inland, with its famous bridge, the Puente Nuevo.
- Málaga: the Picasso Museum, the Alcazaba, the cathedral and a great food market, under an hour away.
- The white villages: Mijas, Casares and Benahavís in the hills.
- Gibraltar: around an hour to the west; bring your passport.
Getting there and around
- Málaga airport is about 45 minutes to an hour from Marbella by car, taxi or the airport bus.
- There is no train to Marbella, so you use buses, taxis, ride-hailing apps or a rental car.
- A car is useful for the day trips; for Marbella itself, taxis are easy.
When to go
We went in August: hot, sunny and at its busiest, with every beach club and restaurant full and prices at their highest. May, June, September and October are warm enough for the beach with fewer people. The Costa del Sol is also popular in winter for its mild temperatures.
FAQ
How many days do you need in Marbella? Three to four days is enough for the beach, Puerto Banús and the old town. Add a day or two for Ronda or Málaga.
Where is the best place to stay in Marbella? The old town and centre for walking everywhere; Puerto Banús for nightlife; the Golden Mile for luxury hotels; San Pedro or the east side for something quieter.
Is Puerto Banús worth visiting? Yes, for an evening walk around the marina and maybe a beach club. Eat and drink a little away from the quay to avoid the highest prices.
How do you get from Málaga airport to Marbella? By taxi or car in about 45 minutes to an hour, or on the direct airport bus.
