Walter Ponce
Some trips are planned for months. This one was planned around ninety minutes of football, which turned into a hundred and twenty. Last month we took the train from Zurich to Milan for the Champions League semi-final, second leg: Inter v Barcelona at San Siro. One afternoon in the city, one unforgettable night at the stadium, and the train home the next morning.
Here is how the day went, and how to plan your own football weekend in Milan.
Getting there: Zurich to Milan by train
The direct EuroCity from Zurich HB to Milano Centrale takes around three and a quarter hours through the Gotthard Base Tunnel. It is far easier than flying: city centre to city centre, no security queues, and you arrive in one of the grandest railway stations in Europe.
Tips:
- Book early on the SBB or Trenitalia apps. Big match days fill the trains.
- Sit on the right-hand side going south for the lakes after Lugano.
- From Centrale, the metro gets you to the Duomo in a few minutes.
Afternoon: the Duomo and the Galleria
We arrived mid-afternoon and went straight to the centre. The Duomo di Milano took nearly six centuries to finish, and its white marble facade and forest of spires never get old. If you have time, go up to the rooftop terraces (by stairs or lift) to walk among the spires; book tickets online to skip the queue.
Next door, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is the 19th-century shopping arcade under a glass and iron dome. Tradition says you should spin on your heel on the mosaic bull in the floor for good luck. On a match day, it is worth a try.
At the far end of the Galleria is Piazza della Scala and the Teatro alla Scala, the most famous opera house in the world.
Early evening: aperitivo in Navigli and Porta Genova
From the centre we went south-west to Porta Genova and the Navigli, the old canal district. In the early evening the bars along the canals fill up for aperitivo, Milan’s great tradition: order a spritz or a Negroni and it comes with snacks, or with a full buffet in some places.
It is also a good spot before a match: the M2 green line from Porta Genova connects to the M5 lilac line, which goes straight to the stadium.
Night: Inter v Barcelona at San Siro
The Stadio Giuseppe Meazza, known to everyone as San Siro, is shared by Inter and AC Milan and holds around 75,000 people. With its spiral ramp towers and red roof girders, it is one of the most recognisable stadiums in the world, and on a Champions League night it is spectacular.
The first leg in Barcelona had finished 3–3, so everything was open. What followed was one of the great Champions League nights of recent years. Inter went 2–0 up before half-time, Barcelona came back to lead 3–2 with three minutes left, Francesco Acerbi equalised in stoppage time, and Davide Frattesi won it for Inter in extra time: 4–3 on the night, 7–6 on aggregate. Inter went through to the final in Munich.
For anyone from Barcelona, it was the wrong result. As a football night, it was unforgettable: seventy-five thousand people, a stadium shaking for two hours, and a game that kept changing direction until the very end.
Tips for a football match at San Siro
- Take the metro. The M5 lilac line to San Siro Stadio is the easiest way there. After the match, expect long queues for the metro; walking towards the next stations helps.
- Arrive early. Security checks for big European nights take time, and the atmosphere before kick-off is part of the experience.
- Bring ID. Tickets for big matches are personal, and you may be asked for identification at the gates.
- The upper tiers are steep but the views are excellent. You see the whole pitch and the full stadium.
- No match? Take the tour. The San Siro stadium tour and museum run on non-match days.
- San Siro’s future: Inter and AC Milan are planning a new stadium next to it, so go while you can.
The next morning
We stayed the night in Milan and took the train back the next day. If you have more time, Milan is worth at least a full weekend:
- The Last Supper at Santa Maria delle Grazie. Book weeks or even months ahead.
- Brera, the old artists’ quarter, and the Pinacoteca di Brera.
- Sforza Castle and Parco Sempione.
- Porta Nuova and the Bosco Verticale, the tree-covered towers.
- Lake Como, under an hour away by train.
A 24-hour Milan football itinerary
| Time | Plan |
|---|---|
| Midday | Train from Zurich |
| 15:30 | Arrive at Milano Centrale |
| 16:00 | Duomo and Galleria |
| 17:00 | Navigli and aperitivo |
| 19:30 | Metro to San Siro |
| 21:00 | Kick-off |
| Next morning | Breakfast, train home |
FAQ
How do you get from Zurich to Milan? The direct EuroCity train takes about three and a quarter hours from Zurich HB to Milano Centrale.
How do you get to San Siro? Take the M5 lilac metro line to San Siro Stadio. Allow extra time on match days.
Can you do Milan as a day trip from Zurich? For sightseeing, yes, though it is a long day. For an evening match, stay the night: the last trains back leave before a late kick-off ends.
What is aperitivo in Milan? An early-evening drink, often a spritz or a Negroni, served with snacks or a buffet. The Navigli canals and Brera are the classic areas.
