Walter Ponce
Barcelona has no shortage of places that promise great produce, but only a few build the whole experience around it. Ultramarinos Marín, at Carrer de Balmes 187 in Sant Gervasi, just above Avinguda Diagonal, is one of them: an old-school bar and grill with an open kitchen, a long steel counter and a short menu that depends on what the market brings in.
We went for lunch and sat at the counter.
What we ordered
We shared a few plates from the grill and the cold side of the kitchen:
- Grilled red prawns (gamba vermella), cooked whole on the plancha.
- Baby squid, grilled.
- A beef tartare, served with toast.
- A sliced grilled beef fillet.
- A glass of red wine.
- A dessert to finish.
From the counter you watch the cooks working the plancha right in front of you, which is a big part of the show.
The dishes, explained
A place like this lives or dies on a handful of products. If you are not familiar with the Catalan names, here is what you will see on the menu:
- Gamba vermella: the red prawn of the Catalan coast. The most famous is the Palamós prawn from the Costa Brava. It is usually cooked simply on the plancha with salt, and locals suck the juices from the head.
- Escamarlans: Norway lobster, known in English as langoustines. Sweet and delicate, they are grilled or boiled and need very little added.
- Calamarsons or chipirones: baby squid, cooked quickly on a very hot plancha so they stay tender.
- Montadito de bottarga: a small piece of bread topped with bottarga, the salted and dried roe of grey mullet or tuna. It is intense, salty and very Mediterranean.
- Allioli: the Catalan emulsion of garlic and olive oil, served with grilled fish, seafood and meat.
- Escalivada: aubergine, red pepper and onion roasted over embers, peeled and dressed with olive oil. A Catalan classic, often served on toast or alongside grilled meat.
- Steak tartare: raw chopped beef seasoned at the table or in the kitchen, served here with toast.
The common thread is the plancha, the flat iron griddle that sits at the heart of most Spanish bar kitchens. It cooks fast and hot, which suits seafood perfectly.
The place
Ultramarinos Marín takes its cues from the classic Spanish barra: you sit at the counter, the kitchen is open, and the cooks are a few metres from your plate. The word ultramarinos refers to the old grocery shops that once sold imported and preserved goods across Spain, and the name sets the tone: produce first, few frills. There are also tables, but the counter is where the action is.
What Google reviewers say
Google rating: 3.9 out of 5 from 796 reviews (October 2026).
Reviewers praise the quality of the produce above all, and single out the langoustines (escamarlans), the montadito de bottarga, the red prawns, the allioli and the escalivada. Many like the old-school bar atmosphere and describe the staff as friendly.
The most common criticism, mentioned by many reviewers, is small portions. Some also say that service can be disorganised when the place is busy, and a number of visitors felt it did not live up to the hype. Expectations clearly matter here: it is a produce-driven bar, not a place for large plates.
Sant Gervasi and the upper Eixample
Balmes 187 sits on the line where the Eixample grid ends and the more residential Sant Gervasi begins. It is a well-off, local part of the city with few tourist sights, but plenty to combine with a meal:
- Passeig de Gràcia and the modernista houses of the Eixample, including Casa Milà (La Pedrera), are a short walk downhill.
- Gràcia, with its squares and small streets, starts just east of Balmes.
- Avinguda Diagonal and the shops around Turó Park and Francesc Macià are within walking distance to the west.
- The area around Carrer de Tuset and Plaça Molina has plenty of bars for a drink before or after.
Getting there
- FGC: Provença and Gràcia stations on the Barcelona–Vallès line are both a short walk away.
- Metro: Diagonal (L3/L5) is about ten minutes on foot.
- Bus: several lines run up and down Carrer de Balmes and along Diagonal.
- On foot: from Passeig de Gràcia, cross Diagonal and walk a couple of blocks west to Balmes.
What to drink
Seafood from the plancha pairs naturally with dry white wines. Look for Catalan whites from the Penedès, Empordà or Alella, Galician Albariño, or a glass of cava or Corpinnat sparkling wine. With grilled beef and tartare, a red from Priorat, Montsant or Ribera del Duero is the classic match. A cold caña of beer is the traditional bar choice at the counter.
When to go
Barcelona eats late: lunch runs roughly from 1:30pm to 4pm, and dinner rarely starts before 8:30 or 9pm. The counter fills quickly at peak times, which is also when reviewers report service getting stretched. Going at the start of a service gives you a better chance of a counter seat and a calmer kitchen.
Tips
- Book ahead, and ask for the counter if you want to watch the kitchen.
- Order in rounds. Start with a few plates, then add more. Since portions are small, this avoids both over-ordering and leaving hungry.
- Ask what is in that day. Seafood depends on the market, so the best dishes change.
- Seafood is often priced by weight in Spanish produce bars. Check before ordering prawns or langoustines if you want to keep the bill in check.
- Go for the simple things: grilled seafood, bread with tomato (pa amb tomàquet), allioli and escalivada are what this style of kitchen does best.
Verdict
Rating: 4 out of 5, based on Google reviews (3.9 from 796). Ultramarinos Marín suits diners who care most about top-quality seafood and grilled meat, and who enjoy eating at a counter in front of an open kitchen. If you expect generous portions or a slow, sit-down meal, read the reviews first and order in small rounds.
FAQ
Where is Ultramarinos Marín? At Carrer de Balmes 187, in Sant Gervasi, Barcelona, just above Avinguda Diagonal.
What is Ultramarinos Marín known for? High-quality produce cooked simply: red prawns, langoustines, the bottarga montadito, allioli, escalivada and grilled meat.
What is gamba vermella? The red prawn of the Catalan Mediterranean coast, best known in its Palamós version, usually grilled with just salt.
Are the portions big? No. Many reviewers mention small portions, so it is best to order several plates to share and add more as you go.
Can you sit at the counter? Yes. The steel counter faces the open kitchen and is the most popular place to sit.
Do you need to book? It is recommended, especially at peak lunch and dinner times.
